We left Kalimantsi Han early enough to get to the world famous Madara Horseman in time to walk up the hill to it, look at it, walk back down and then get to a supermarket (BILLA in Shumen) in time to buy lunch. Apple promised an hour’s drive but Garmin had a more radical route…

I wondered if some of our odd feelings yesterday about Bulgaria were actually due to all the signage being in Cyrillic. Even the nicest words can look as though they’re coming from the mouth of Joseph Stalin. Here, he is saying “Welcome to my lovely restaurant which serves the best fish!” It feels more threatening…